vor 6 Jahren

Fashion Capital Berlin

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Page 10 Page 11 FRANK

Page 10 Page 11 FRANK LEDER This designer’s focus is rather unusual. While many of his Berlin fashion peers seek stimulation in distant countries, Frank Leder – born in 1974 and educated at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London – is devoted to German culture. To be more precise, he is inspired by traditional work uniforms worn by Germany’s butchers, foresters and vagabonds. His fan base, however, is decidedly international. The Charlottenburgbased designer enjoys considerable popularity around the world, especially in Japan. ANNA VON GRIESHEIM Although Berlin’s fashion scene is dominated by the new generation of fashion designers – most of whom started their careers in the late 2000s – some designers have successfully built up their labels over decades, thanks to convincing, wearable designs and a loyal, fashion-conscious clientele. One of these designers is Anna von Griesheim, who started her label in 1991. Her list of loyal fans includes many German celebrities, among them Chancellor Angela Merkel. German-French Duo Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul met during their studies in Paris and decided to set out on their own in Berlin. They unite their differing experiences – they have worked with labels including Y-3 and Jean Paul Gaultier – to produce fashion that can be located somewhere between ‘Ready-to-Wear’ and 'Couture.' Materials and handcrafts are the cornerstones of their designs, which range from dramatic to playful to elegantly sexy; a look that is poetic with a pinch of Rock ‘n Roll. The label’s presentation is in line with its artistic and craft-driven aesthetic. During Fashion Week, the label does not hold runway shows but instead relies on theatrical performances. After winning the 2011 “Start your Fashion Business” award, Augustin Teboul has become known as one of Germany’s most promising labels. augustin tebouil Fashion Designers AUGUSTIN TEBOUL “The fashion scene is still very young and needs some time to define itself and find its own personality. Berlin inspires with its freedom, its spirit and its creative environment.” Faces to remember Fashion's next wave Every six months, new creations are presented at the Berlin Fashion Week, and behind these collections are the rising fashion makers who attract international media and buyer interest. A cross-section of the newcomers reveals that Berlin’s young fashion labels are distinguished by their motivation to be different and their affinity to this dynamic city. In alphabetical order: BLAENK Silke Geib studied fashion in Paris, while her business partner Nadine Möllenkamp trained in Antwerp. The duo learned from fashion houses including Viktor & Rolf before stepping out on their own in 2011 with the label Blaenk. The label’s innovative concept relies on the combination of vintage elements with new, high-quality fabrics to create garments that are both luxurious and sustainable. This approach earned Geib and Möllenkamp, now split between Berlin and Amsterdam, the 2012 “Start your Fashion Business” award. ISSEVER BAHRI Cimen Bahri and Derya Issever met early in their studies at the HTW Berlin University of Applied Sciences. Their friendship grew into a business partnership in 2011, when Issever Bahri’s first collection garnered a great deal of attention and secured the Premium Young Designer’s Award. In the following year, they continued their winning streak with second place in the “Start your Fashion Business” award. Every Issever Bahri collection is based on a different theme, but the label’s accented pattern construction is its most outstanding characteristic. The creative engagement with materials – such as hand-knitted leather – has become a signature feature. BLAME Sarah Büren and Sonja Holzode gathered a wealth of experience before setting out on their own in 2010. Stopovers on their creative journey included the ateliers of Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss and Michael Michalsky after they completed their studies at the Trier University of Applied Sciences. Since then, the duo has been creating fashion that stands out, thanks to the combination of different materials and patterns. Blame’s fresh, feminine and positive look convinced the jury at the 2012 “Start your Fashion Business” award, where the two took second prize.

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